Wood Roasted Chicken

We are having a manic depressive fall. One day is freezing with mean little pellets of ice flinging down from the sky. The next, it is sixty degrees and the confused insects, lethargic and sleepy, are droning through open doors. It provokes global warming conversation at every turn. And, the grill has still not fully gone into hibernation. The days however are short, so this is a mighty tasty, decadent but simple lunch for a late fall day. Put on your coat and break a baguette into chunks and sop this up outdoors, one more al dente (fresco) meal.

Remove and reserve the back bone from a whole chicken. Cut through breast cartilage to make two halves. Salt generously and put in fridge for a few hours (or overnight). light some hardwood charcoal in a grill. Douse chicken halves with olive oil, salt and pepper and rub into the skin. Roughly chop some garlic. In the pan, under each half of bird place some garlic along with some sprigs of fresh rosemary, thyme and savory. Put a whole head of garlic in the pan. Squeeze juice from a couple of lemons over and pour about 1/2 cup of white wine, or water, in the pan. When the coals are ready, put the pan on the grill and close the top of the grill. The temperature should be around 350-400. Roast, basting continually, till the chicken is nicely browned and the juices run clear, about an hour or so. Cut into pieces and serve! For the back, rub it with olive oil, salt and pepper. Put it directly on the grill while the rest of the chicken is cooking in the pan. Keep turning til it's crispy...chefs' treat! Or, if that is not your idea of a treat, save it for stock.